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27 Ways to Heaven Our food editors pick the Sarasota dishes everybody should taste. Judi Gallagher and Kristine Nickel |
Thanks to visitors and residents with a taste for the good life, Sarasota enjoys an ever-evolving and dizzyingly delicious restaurant scene, from much-awarded landmarks serving classic Continental and New American cuisine to hip little bistros where the food is as cool as the Cosmo-drinking crowd. Creative chefs and entrepreneurs from all over keep elevating the offerings, sometimes giving the latest flavors and trends a Southwest Florida twist.
In a town overflowing with so many culinary riches, we decided to embark on a bold mission: to find the most sensational, satisfying dishes of them all. What made our selections stand out from the crowd? We loved some for their flair and originality, others for their Sarasota roots or stunning presentation, and a few for their sheer simplicity and authenticity. But simple or sophisticated, every dish brought fabulous flavor to the table and left us hungry for more. We started our list with more than 100 selections; after delicious judiciousness, we finally arrived at 27 fare necessities—the dishes every Sarasota resident and visitor absolutely must taste.
Whether it’s a creamy cowgirl goat cheese, a tangy smoked Wisconsin cheddar or an Oregon blue, Southgate Gourmet’s cheese plate reflects owner Cliff Whatmore’s neverending search for the finest American artisanal cheeses. The selections change according to the season and his latest discoveries, but the cheese is always glorious. And so are the accompaniments—macerated dried fruits, chili almonds and red-wine-soaked dates. 2157 Siesta Drive, (941) 954-2280.
No one has ever accused the award-winning Beach Bistro of understatement, as its most extravagant culinary gem, Death by Foie Gras, demonstrates. Homemade brioche transformed into a buttery, rich bread pudding and baked with a hint of pineapple pillows the slices of pan-seared foie gras. A Sauterne vanilla bean reduction puddles the plate. Our only question: Is this an appetizer or dessert? 6600 Gulf Drive, Holmes Beach, (941) 778-6444.
They say you can't make good bread in Florida—nonsense, they just haven't discovered the baguettes at C’est La Vie. Crusty on the outside, tender on the inside, these authentic French loaves require just the right amount of pull to tear one apart before you even make it to the sidewalk. Perfect with sliced brie and Parma ham or simply solo. Buy an extra one; the first one never seems to make it home. 1553 Main St., (941) 906-9575.
We haunt Yoder’s during season to see if those Mennonite cooks made sour cream raisin pie that day. It’s not always in the vintage ‘50s pie case, but when it is, the cream filling with a hint of butterscotch and lots of slightly piquant raisins sends us straight to heaven. If it's not there, their 'best-seller—strawberry cream pie' is the next best path to paradise. 3434 Bahia Vista, (941) 955-7771.
When temperatures rise, cool off with Crab & Fin’s classic gazpacho. The St. Armands Circle seafood house barely purées the uncooked tomatoes, sweet bell peppers, cucumber, garlic and olive oil to create a highly textured soup, served in a modified martini glass with a dollop of sour cream, a crunchy crouton and a crowning stalk of celery. And just as tasty is the sidewalk seat overlooking the Circle’s pretty promenade of shoppers. 420 St. Armands Circle. (941) 388-396.
The earthy flavors of the Aegean Sea peninsula travel to Siesta Key via Mattison’s Greek salad with grilled lamb chops. A bed of fresh greens hosts a trio of grilled lamb chops, creamy dollops of chevre cheese and a dome of cubed cucumbers bathed in tart tzatziki sauce. You get cured olives and blistered tomatoes, too. This is a casual meal that goes way beyond the norm. 1256 Old Stickney Point Road, (941) 349-2800.
The café tables outside downtown’s new 100 Central offer the quintessential urban al fresco experience, but Pino’s salad di mare will take you straight to restaurateur Pino Luongo’s native Capri. Chilled to a seafood-enhancing temperature, the mussels, littleneck clams, scallops, shrimp and fabulously tender baby octopus are exquisite. A touch of vinaigrette, freshly ground pepper and sea salt—molto bene! The warm rosemary bread only adds to the excitement. 100 Central, 100 Central Ave., (941) 955-3739.
Foam’s the rage right now, and Cru’s sesame-encrusted ahi tuna with wasabi foam shows why. Everything about this appetizer, especially the whipped cream-like garnish prepared from Japan’s notorious horseradish, delights the senses. A blend of black and white sesame seeds adds color and crunch to the exquisitely tender tuna swimming in a little pool of caramel sauce studded with cracked pepper. 1377 Main St., (941) 951-6272.
Italy’s traditional bruschetta gets artful treatment at the Ringling Museum’s new Treviso café. To a palette of perfect garlic bread, the chef adds a Tuscan white bean tapenade, spiced with oregano and topped with crisp eggplant relish and painterly-red chopped tomatoes. It’s a little masterpiece of a meal, and the Italian-themed museum complex only adds to the authentic flavor. 5401 Bay Shore Road. (941) 360-7490.