Something about the Gulf Gate area supports small, unassuming restaurants that capture a following without fanfare or high-profile publicity. Such is the case with Broccolini. Homespun touches like crocheted table toppers under glass speak volumes about the classic style of Italian dishes. Expect chicken Marsala and pasta fagioli to taste like what you’d find in Boston’s north end, but there’s an inventive spirit in the kitchen, too. Seafood comes in impressively creative preparations, and the kitchen’s willingness to please is legendary among regulars.

Urban Energy

Downtown’s condos may not all be occupied, or even built, but the restaurants are booming, creating an urban environment that’s producing a long-awaited energy in a city that used to roll up the streets at sundown. Two of the best are in the Rosemary District, that charming little neighborhood just north of the Fruitville corridor. Rustic Grill created major buzz when it opened, and the place is a treat for all the senses. The design unites an aristocratic Old World aesthetic with a sense of cutting-edge experience. The food takes some classics and applies an edge, too. Try the lamb shank on the meat side of the ledger or scallops topping the seafood side. Chef Clinton Combs is hitting his stride here; we only wish his service staff always held up their side of the equation.

Derek Barnes is another hot local chef who’s hit the mark with Derek’s Culinary Casual. Located in a former art studio, the restaurant is a casual, chic space, setting the scene for an equally chic fusion menu. Look no further than the foie gras for a hint of how Derek views the plate. Unctuous foie gras is smartly enhanced by pomegranate vinaigrette starring picturesque little pink peppercorns. Next, move to the duck. The breast is lean, with an almost gamey taste that’s united with a fabulously crispy, lush leg. This is served with spaetzle dressed in cream sauce. Completing the plate are Asian seasoned greens, providing a spiciness that cuts through the opulence of the dish. Fusion food can be awkward or overwrought, but here the cross-cultural elements blend triumphantly.

Finally our city of the arts has a real center for cafÈ society—Five Points, thanks to the addition of The Grape and the Americano Cafe. The former fuses a retail wine cellar with a singles-scene bar. Who knew we had all those beautiful, leggy young women in suits and stilettos? The Grape, which is part of a chain, is a novel concept, catering to the neophyte oenophile with a fun system of identifying wine styles and food compatibility. Not the spot for serious food, although some of the light bites are excellent; save The Grape for a casual escape.

Americano CafÈ brings the bistro to Main Street. It’s difficult to decide which part of the day brings the best meal here. I love the breakfast—it’s so European to sit outside and sip espresso while enjoying a plump helping of eggs and ham. The salads at lunch are always fresh and inviting, and the roasted meats for dinner hit the spot.

Great Mexican restaurants were few and far between prior to the opening of Cinco de Mayo, another welcome addition to Main Street. Interesting combinations of flavors, occasionally fiery, raise this above the ordinary. But not to worry, all the usual suspects are on the menu, executed with flavor and flair. The space exudes a quiet cool, and the long list of Mexican beers will give you a south-of the-border brewery tour.

At the east end of Main Street, Utamaro—which is technically speaking, not new, but reinvented itself when it moved to downtown from St. Armands this year—attracts a cool young crowd to its sushi bar and draws older patrons, too, for its top-rate sushi and friendly service.

Rounding Up the Ranch

The lightning-fast speed with which Lakewood Ranch appeared and became, well, a huge traffic jam, still astounds me. It seems like yesterday that the exit at University Parkway only allowed travel to the west, with no eastbound road at all! Those days are obviously over, and while it first seemed that the restaurant scene would be dominated by familiar chains, including branches of Sarasota’s beloved Morton’s Market, Broken Egg and Serving Spoon, the past year has witnessed the opening of independent eateries in the ranch, too. The Main Street retail collection is home to several restaurants; one of the most fun is MacAllister’s, a casual joint with a decidedly Scottish feel. You’ll find haggis on the menu, but it’s thankfully disguised in phyllo dough. Better yet, you’ll find a huge assortment of single-malt Scotch, by far the best in the area. Take your time sipping them and enjoying the warm ambiance and the golf-themed design. Food is casual— burgers, pastas and the like—and the clientele moves from families to a lively bar scene as the evening progresses.