“Fashions come and go, but style is eternal.” – Yves Saint Laurent.




I’m sure you’ve noticed by now that I love to tour a fashionable exhibit, from Alexander McQueen to Daphne Guinness to Jean Paul Gaultier. Adding to my dossier, I recently went on the road to visit the Denver Art Museum’s Yves Saint Laurent: The Retrospective, in partnership with the Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent Foundation. The sole venue for this exhibit in the United States, it’s expertly curated by Florence Müller and overseen by Pierre Bergé, Saint Laurent’s fifty-year business partner and the love of his life.




The 13,000 square-foot retrospective, which premiered in 2010 at the Petit Palais, Musée des Beaux-Arts de la Ville de Paris, displays the full arc of Saint Laurent’s impact on fashion’s history with more than 200 pieces of his 15,000-plus haute couture and prêt-à-porter creations. All from his four-decade career that spanned from his early days as Christian Dior’s protégé, at a remarkable 21 years old, to his bid farewell at the final Yves Saint Laurent runway show in 2002.







Season after season, Saint Laurent influenced women’s style from his trestle desk in the 16th arrondissement of Paris. With pencil and paper in hand, he began drawing at the top of the page, beginning at the face, he then sketched downward without a preconceived notion of what would appear before him. But, Saint Laurent ultimately designed with more than a pencil stroke. He worked directly with the fabric for the ideal cut, volume and proportions as he draped it on a live model, coaxing and revealing the lines of the feminine form.






According to those who respected, adored and worked along side the master, he scrutinized every detail down to the tiniest millimeter. Saint Laurent focused on defining a garment’s fluid movement, especially while the body was in motion. He liked to say, “What is important in a dress is the woman who is wearing it.”


“He was a man that understood his times better than anyone.” - Pierre Bergé 




Ahead of any other designer at the time, armed with bolts of fabric and a genius eye, Saint Laurent endeavored to give women the confidence that men had when dressing, and he was known for it. Lauren Bacall was quoted as saying, “If it’s pants, its Yves.” He single-handedly revolutionized the female wardrobe by challenging the dictates of haute couture. He drew inspiration for high fashion from Parisian street style as well as borrowing from traditional menswear such as the trench coat, tailored trouser suit, safari jacket and jumpsuit, which until that time were only worn by airman and parachutists. Many of his transformations are timelessly stylish essentials today.






He further acknowledged women’s changing roles in society by providing her with the masculine-turned-feminine tuxedo. In his signature style, Saint Laurent spun numerous variations on the tux, which evolved from 1968-1996: trench coats, Bermuda shorts, evening dresses, jumpsuits, safari jackets, Kimonos and even a chic bolero. Interestingly enough, the women’s tuxedo didn’t initially take in the world of haute couture but it did with his masstige ready-to-wear line. Catherine Deneuve, long an admirer of YSL and his muse, was an early adopter of the style and insightfully remarked, “Things move faster on the street.” 




Other “firsts” for Saint Laurent:


•    He introduced the above mentioned ready-to-wear line to the fashion world – he wanted every woman to have access to good design not only high profile socialites and celebrities. He called this line Rive Gauche, which translates to “Left Bank,” where he plucked inspiration from the Bohemian culture and street style.

•    YSL introduced the first black model to the runway

•    He shocked the world of haute couture by introducing new materials such as sheer fabrics like lace and, the ultra radical material: leather. With experimentation comes great risk and Saint Laurent drew fire from critics for the latter when he created a black crocodile embossed leather jacket for a Christian Dior collection.
 
•    In 1996 he became the first designer to broadcast a runway show live on the Internet


 






I would not do this exhibit overview justice unless I pointed out the significant influence that other cultures imposed on Saint Laurent’s collections and fabric palettes. With the exception of the Saint Laurent/Bergé home in Morocco, he preferred not to travel, which is difficult to imagine when viewing galleries of vibrant colors with the essence of culture from Russia to India to Japan to Spain to Africa. He breathed exotic life into the world of haute couture from the prowess of his imagination.






///

Great art was another inspirational factor for Saint Laurent, he paid tribute to his favorite artists by incorporating their work into his fashions such as Mondrian, Picasso and Matisse, as seen here:











It was quite a show – if you want to skip past the opening drummers, the dresses make their appearance in minute two….




The uncompromising and provocative tour de force that was Yves Saint Laurent left us on June 1, 2008. But not without leaving his sketchbook marks on fashion history with the enduring image of demure elegance and beautifully cut, re-imagined menswear garments for women. As a French journalist wrote of Saint Laurent, “He made what we didn’t know we were expecting.”  Exactement!


Got a little YSL fever? Here’s a rental recommendation for your next movie night….

Yves Saint Laurent: L'amour fou  chronicles the life of Saint Laurent as told by Pierre Bergé. The documentary also follows Bergé’s decision to auction their collection of art and antiquities with Christie's at the Grand Palais in Paris. The auction raised $483,835,144, the world record sum for a private collection sold at auction. The monies benefitted the Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent Foundation along with a foundation supporting scientific research and the fight against AIDS. If you love fashion, I highly, highly recommend this movie. It’s no doubt a 10.


Also, if you find yourself in the Denver area, the exhibit runs through July 8, 2012. And, skip the lines with advanced tickets by clicking here.

---

For more fashion news and notes, follow Heather on Twitter @heatherDUNHILL.

And for even more ways to get Sarasota Magazine, become a fan on Facebook or follow @SarasotaMagazin on Twitter.

If you've been watching NBC's hit TV series Fashion Star, like me, then you know there's only one episode left until the first winner, who will receive a life-changing $6 million dollar contract, is announced. And among the finalists is Manhattan-based Kara Laricks--my fave!  I really dig her artistic, menswear-inspired designs. (Click here to watch a sneak peek at next week's finale.)

I connected with Kara after the first episode, where she showed her clever signature accessory called the Collar, Stand + Tie. Had to have one; wore it to the wedding celebration of Dr. David and Yara Shoemaker at the Ringling Museum of Art.

Part of the competition is to have the ability to design capsule collections for all three stores--Saks Fifth Avenue, H&M and Macy's, which Kara has sharply and successfully done. Since episode two, she's captured the attention of Terron Schaefer, buyer for Saks. In fact, he shared his confidence in her style on national television by remarking: "We like you. We really like you." 


Here are her winning styles, most of which are sold out, which can be found online and in stores.















Even with her hectic schedule and preparation for the finale, Kara took some time out for a Q&A.

Qs for Kara Laricks: 

1. Your fashion design is entirely unique in a market inundated with much of the same – how do you define your style?

I define my style as a modern-day Annie Hall meets a Japanese street style aesthetic.  I love menswear-inspired clothing as well as an avant garde cut in a minimalistic color palette.
 
2. Tell us some interesting dynamics that happen behind-the-scenes of Fashion Star…

A truly shocking dynamic was that on the very first day of taping, I discovered my friend Ronnie was on the show!  We went to school together at the Academy of Art in San Francisco--we both graduated in 2008; he from the undergrad program in fashion design and I from the master's program.  I felt really fortunate to have a familiar face as my "partner in crime" throughout the process. 

As for other dynamics, I really wish the Fashion Star audience was able to see the dynamic between the designers and our patternmakers/sample sewers.  I grew very close with Julia [a patternmaker], who thought I was crazy for just showing a tie on the first episode, but quickly got on board when we had our great success with the Week 2 dress.. We laughed, we cried and we still email.  I hope to work with her in the future.
 
3. Who are your design heroes, in the fashion industry or otherwise?

There is no question my design hero is Yohji Yamamoto.  I admire so many things about this man, but what I admire most is the fact that he has stayed true to his aesthetic regardless of trends, decades, etc. I love his collaboration with Adidas, Y-3.  Mr. Yamamoto's design gives me something to think about, something to wonder about. It's more than just collections of clothing; it's art with a message each season. One of my style heroes is Tilda Swinton--regardless of the event, she stands apart from the crowd.  I guess I have something for the "odd one out"--I am always looking for the "one of these things is not like the other," to quote an old Sesame Street song.
 
4. Fill in the blank – While I’m working, I like to:

Have an iced skim latte with whipped cream by my side (there's one there now!). I listen to music to suit my mood (from The Smiths to Lady Gaga to Manu Chao to Azealia Banks to Erykah Badu).  And I love the "support" I get from my 14 year old standard poodle, Maz.
 
5. What does a Kara Laricks-styled girl wear on a Friday night?

Mmmmm...she takes a risk by standing apart--a great slouchy trouser with a menswear-inspired button down,  buttoned down! Nothing wrong with showing a little skin on a Friday night!  Maybe tuck a Collar + Tie underneath the shirt's collar and let it hang loosely.  Throw on a great pair of heels and she is on her way!  Did I mention a great jacket with interesting detail might complete this look?  Well, it would.  
 
6. What is your theory behind the yin and yang of your feminine/masculine designs?

I believe that we all have a little bit of both masculine and feminine within us, and I don't just mean style-wise.  I think it is important to honor all sides of our personalities, and I see dressing as a way to do just that.  I see it as my honor and privilege to provide women, and hopefully someday men, with interesting options to express how they are feeling and who they are in terms of style.
 
7. Tell us your current obsession…

I am currently obsessed with Iris Apfel-inspired sunglasses that I found on St. Mark's for $10.  When the lenses are down, they simply look like huge round sunglasses, but when I lift the outer lenses, dark-rimmed Iris glasses are underneath!  Foxy!  They add the perfect amount of quirkiness to any outfit.  I get so many compliments on them as sunglasses, and then when I show people how the lenses lift--well, nothing like compliments and a good laugh in the same exchange! Gotta love fashion with a sense of humor--it's meant to be fun!
 
8. What’s your secret talent?

I am an extremely loud clapper--yes, I just admitted it. I don't think my girlfriend would consider this a "talent," but I disagree!
 

Catch the Finale of Fashion Star next Tuesday at 10 p.m. on NBC--good luck, Kara!

---

For even more fashion news and notes, follow Heather on Twitter @heatherDUNHILL.

And for even more ways to get Sarasota Magazine, become a fan on Facebook or follow @SarasotaMagazin on Twitter.

Nothing new or hot off the press on this summer reading list, but these picks are taken from my own bookshelf.  I’m of the opinion that these are should-be-classics for the stylish…

























But those are from my own bookshelf – what’s a stylish must read on yours?

---

For more fashion news and notes, follow Heather on Twitter @heatherDUNHILL.

And for more ways to get Sarasota Magazine, become a fan on Facebook or follow @SarasotaMagazin on Twitter.

It’s nearly time for social obligations to wrap and for the soleil to beckon your inner bathing cutie to a peaceful afternoon by the pool.

I did a little personal shopping for you–pulled a few standouts in this season’s swimwear for guys and gals, just so you can make a splash…


All this retro pin-up Norma Kamali suit needs is a pair of red-and-white striped espadrilles and an oversized floppy white hat to turn you into a screen-siren. Well, and maybe a refreshing cocktail…


This Michael Kors suit almost needs it’s own reality show…



Even though I know I’m not a polka dot wearing girl, I just love the trend. For some reason it makes me think of the wearer as a fun and flirty girl. Pair it with a breton-striped shirt to give it a little French nonchalance. This one’s from J.Crew.



I know. I know. I’m a broken record: Nobody does leopard like Dolce & Gabbana.



Mon Dieu! I say if you can wear this cutout Hervé Léger bandage bikini, then do. It has the proverbial tough girl look about it without revealing too much. Why do I have a feeling we’ll see Rooney Mara in this on a beach in Ibiza?


Liquid gold Lanvin. This one shoulder piece gives alotta sexy with some solid coverage. And the belt will give a slimming look – who doesn’t want that?



Guys, stay with me here because the cognoscenti of beachwear fashion are saying it’s time to get in the mood for prints…


An Italian will always lead the way to a chic afternoon at the beach, so look to Etro for cool cuts, saturated hues and a handsome print to send you on your way.



Hang ten with these J.Crew vintage inspired, nine-inch-long board shorts in a jaunty blown-out gingham



Add a soupçon of modern preppy into your summer wardrobe with these Scotch & Soda a la marinière striped swim trunks


PS: If you want to complete your summer look, and missed last week’s blog, I’ve got some suggestions for your next pair of sunnies…

---

For even more fashion news and notes, follow Heather on Twitter @heatherDUNHILL.

And for even more ways to get Sarasota Magazine, become a fan on Facebook or follow @SarasotaMagazin on Twitter.

Even though sunnies have become a year round stylish staple, this is usually the time of year when many of us go on a vision quest for new frames. And since sunglasses had a major moment on the spring/summer runways, I did a little homework for you. So, if you don’t like to be kept in the shade on the latest trends, keep in mind that there is a retro feel to nearly every eyewear trend out there--and quite a few are unisex...

Lets kick off with something for the guys. Want something a little more modern JFK than Will.i.am?





Or log on to WarbyParker.com for a $95 pair, which include polarized lenses. And when you make a purchase they give a pair to someone in need. Nice. 



Prada showed its take on traditional horn-rimmed shades, which you can always find in the less-pricey Ray-Ban variety.




Yeah, even Maverick and Goose would be surprised to know that aviators have secured a solid foothold – but at the moment the focus is on exaggerated aviators like these. And, yep, Carreras have found their way back into our collections:






It doesn’t get any more retro than the cat eye….








White hot frames are très très chic, like these on the Dries van Noten Spring 2012 Runway….






Get your '80s-inspired update, which always means something’s been oversized….








Now it's your turn: Who makes your favorite sunnies? And which of these shapes will you be trying out this summer? Leave a comment and let me know!

---

For more fashion news and notes, follow Heather on Twitter @heatherDUNHILL.

And for even more ways to get Sarasota Magazine, become a fan on Facebook or follow @SarasotaMagazin on Twitter.