Even before it opened, people were checking out the new Rustic Grill in the trendy Rosemary District. A sister restaurant to the popular lunch spot Sierra Station, which is just an alley away, the handsome stone and brick building seemed to take forever to finish. Workmen labored away on the interior for months, giving tantalizing glimpses of the space through the arching doorway. And now we know: The wait was worth all the anticipation.

The space is drop-dead mesmerizing; every element is beautifully appointed with something interesting to look at. The bar has an aquarium-very cool indeed-which might seem out of sync with the mostly Mediterranean motif, but it absolutely works, creating a splash of movement and brilliant color. An antique sculpture of a mermaid, at one time slated to be in John Ringling's Ritz Hotel, completes the aqua theme.

Gigantic copper domes provide ceilings over the bar and the open kitchen in the large dining room. Huge Etruscan-looking vessels lining the hallway made us wonder whether the Ringling Museum was selling some castoffs. In fact, the painting that dominates one wall would look quite at home in the Ringling. But what else would you expect from a restaurant owned by antique dealers Al and Monika Tomlinson? The Rustic Grill creates a feast for the senses before the menu even arrives. And when it does, it's stashed in a burnished metal folder that's so beautiful to look at, it's hard to look in.

Executive chef Clinton Combs, formerly of Christopher's, holds up his end of the sensory bargain, however, and the food does not disappoint. A brown paper bag arrives at the table full of yummy little cornmeal rolls spiked with a bit of pepper. Seared day boat scallops ($12) are so fat and juicy it doesn't seem possible that the companion creamed corn could improve the taste, but it does.

The lime vinaigrette on the fried green tomatoes and mixed greens ($7) has that piquant quality all chefs strive for, adding a layer of flavor and complexity to what is essentially a bland dish. The baby arugula salad ($8) is a sweet and tart little symphony, with the roasted garlic and parsley vinaigrette a perfect foil for the ripe tomatoes, spicy greens and rich crumbles of Gorgonzola.

And there are more "little plates" and salads from which to choose. I was intrigued by a tuna tartare ($13) featuring wasabi tobikko and citrus-ginger ponzu (a light-yellow Japanese sauce), and the rustic fries ($7) sound heavenly. They come with homemade ketchup prepared from grilled tomatoes, garlic and Parmesan.

The "big plate" page puts the "grill" in Rustic Grill. Most of the entrées are either grilled or seared. The grilled duck breast ($24) sits amicably next to incredibly rich and inviting white cheddar and caramelized onion risotto. A dressed-up Bing cherry glaze ties the flavors together. The grilled filet of beef tenderloin ($31) is a standout, with a delicious cream sauce created from roasted beets. Mashed potatoes, enhanced with melted boursin cheese, are the starch on this dish. Other temptations include grilled pork tenderloin, a New York strip and braised lamb shank. Seafood is not forgotten, with an herb-dusted salmon and five-spice-rubbed seared tuna rounding out the menu.

Desserts delight, too. The Bing cherry brioche bread pudding ($8) is unequivocally the best bread pudding in my taste memory. The chef brings a bit of dark chocolate to the sauce and mixes white chocolate Anglaise into the brioche. Nirvana.

On our visit there were a few snafus typical of any newly opened restaurant. The music seemed too loud, and wine service could have been smoother. But those were minor notes in an exciting and rewarding restaurant experience. Kudos to chef Coombs, who has raised the bar on Sarasota's restaurant scene.

RUSTIC GRILL

400 N. Lemon Ave., Sarasota
(941) 906-1111
Monday-Saturday 5-10 p.m.
Closed Sunday
Reservations suggested
Credit cards
Parking in Sierra Station lot next door
Wheelchair accessible
Catering and private parties