Sometimes the most luxurious things in life are simple. Take, for example,
the enticing new menu of the Vernona Dining Room at The Ritz-Carlton, Sarasota.
Most of it is organic, featuring locally grown produce and meats from animals
that have been organically fed and humanely raised. The menu reflects fresh,
seasonally appropriate selections-peas in the spring, root vegetables in the
winter. It's a menu that makes sense but shows great sensibility in imaginative
presentation and pairings. And of course, the flavors are sovereign-bright,
clean, authentic and so fresh.
Bravo to Vernona chef Yves Vacheresse for his research and for his commitment
(he drives to one of his suppliers every few days and loads dew-soaked fruits
and vegetables into the back seat himself). And bravo to executive chef Frederic
Morineau for encouraging and promoting the experiment. The Sarasota Ritz is
pioneering a type of menu that other restaurants in the haute hotel family may
well want to emulate.
Chef Vacheresse, who's working on a cookbook based on his philosophy of
nourishment, says his current approach to ingredients and cooking takes him back
to his childhood in France. "We went to the market daily and bought what was
fresh and in season," he says. "And we cooked simply, allowing the fresh flavors
to come through. When you have fruits, vegetables, meats and seafood that are
absolutely fresh, you want to do very little to them. And when you realize that
you are enjoying something-fresh strawberries, maybe-that you can't have at any
other time of year, it makes those tastes that much more special. To this day, I
only eat apples in the fall." He likes to support local organic sources; his
suppliers are listed on the menu in case you want to patronize them, too.
Recently two of us booked a table at the Vernona with the intention of eating
an organic meal from appetizer to dessert. We found plenty of choices to put
together an original and satisfying dinner, starting with a surprise amuse
bouche, a sliver of wild salmon with a light sauce. For the appetizer, one
of us opted for the Vernona salad ($10), which was baby field greens, shaved
beets and fennel, Florida sweet onion, orange zest and pistachios dressed with
aged sherry-hazelnut vinaigrette. It was crunchy, sweet-sour, cleansing and
entirely pretty, too.
We also sampled the spicy Lake Okeechobee organic shrimp, paired with roasted
mango and avocado cream for a rare tropical taste treat at $14. This is a
tourist must. Also on our table was the warm Vidalia onion tart ($12), arranged
atop field greens tossed with artichoke purée, Gorgonzola and fig balsamic
vinegar. Rich and hearty. We might also have tried the chilled heirloom tomato
cream soup ($9), which sported a top hat of a basil-Parmesan crisp.
For the main course, one of us had the grilled veal chop, thick but delicate,
juicy and flavorful, served atop a bed of silken organic stone-ground whipped
grits unlike any grits you've ever tasted. To the side was a mound of
bright-green flat Romano beans. My dining partner chose beef tenderloin with
heirloom potatoes and creamed spinach. Uncomplicated and soul-satisfying at
$39.
Since Florida grouper supplies are being depleted, Vacheresse is promoting
wreck fish, a firm-fleshed member of the grouper family. He serves it with
celery root purée and ginger crisp and a little mound of red onion-rhubarb
marmalade for $26.
Dessert is the most challenging in terms of choosing organic, because the
Ritz's chocolate confections are made with imported dark chocolates from Belgium
and France. And all of award-winning pastry chef Stephane Cheramy's chocolate
creations are worth sampling. So we went with the bittersweet chocolate tart
with vanilla ice cream and pistachio foam, meandering from our organic route
with no regrets. But if you decide to stay pure, order some of the house-made
sorbets, such as mango, grapefruit, blood orange or coconut. These colorful and
refreshing sorbets, made with organic fruits, are paired with almond meringues
or other surprise shortbread cookies or cake morsels.
The Vernona organic menu changes seasonally (and sometimes daily), depending
on harvest and dependability of chef's local suppliers. But while the
ingredients may vary, you can be assured that the commitment to sustainable
farming and the culinary expertise at the Vernona will always measure up to the
high standards of the Ritz-Carlton. And the service will be outstanding.