The Place: Village Idiot Pizzeria, 11904 Cortez Road W., Cortez, (941) 896-4857.
The Fare: Sublime pizzas baked in a flash in a super hot wood-burning oven by chef Joseph Yost.
The Bottom Line: The pizzas are 13-inchers on a hand-stretched crust in combinations to die for, some white and some red, ranging in price from $12 to $15. Doesn’t sound like a good deal? Don’t judge until you’ve tasted. These are magisterial pizzas and worth every cent. One recent evening I watched as the chef put together his fungi white pizza ($14), ladling on a lovely sweet pesto, sprinkling on his four-cheese shredded mix, carefully placing crimini mushrooms and crowning the whole with chunks ripped from a ball of fresh mozzarella before popping into that glowing oven for about six minutes. Dine in if you’re not close by, or order take-out when you get there rather than phoning. The pizzas cook fast and you don’t want to miss watching yours made.