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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: Interpreted

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Well, you had to know it was coming….a reflection and  report on Fashion Week.  The challenge with this blog was how to organize the coveted chaos of fashion’s biggest week. Frankly, it’s almost more than a girl can process into some form of cohesive shorthand.  So, to keep it light and take the edge off, […]

September 16, 2011


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Well, you had to know it was coming….a reflection and  report on Fashion Week.  The challenge with this blog was how to organize the coveted chaos of fashion’s biggest week. Frankly, it’s almost more than a girl can process into some form of cohesive shorthand. 

So, to keep it light and take the edge off, here’s my couture compendium, complete with links to my fave designer slideshows and video clips.

You’ll get a clear picture on trends. Not to worry, no grand and brand new style revelations were introduced. But it will come as no surprise that color, prints, leather and jumpsuits have traction in the sartorial universe. And, if you’ve been asleep at the wheel while sequins were creeping around the bend, heads up: You’ll need something sparkly this season.

HELMUT LANG
Beginning the virtual FW journey, first stop is Helmut Lang. This is my go-to-real-world-everyday-live-in clothing line. It’s so me. And one of a very few brands that fit pants, jeans and trousers for my 5’11” frame. I’m here to tell you that it’s not an easy feat to find pants that don’t need to be let out. 

Can’t wait for the Spring 2012 Collection.

And, L.O.V.E. these Alejandro Ingelmo platforms!  Fairly certain you’ll see me in a pair when I can get my hands on them.


This is a great pic that was taken with the Instagram App for iPhone. (PS: It’s a FREE app, so if you love it, too, download away…)

Fashion houses make it look so effortless, but if you’ve ever wondered what it takes to put a runway show together–before the backstage gets crowded with hairstylists, models and makeup artists–then you may find this NY Times piece interesting: The Making of the Helmut Lang Show.

And for even more behind-the-scenes peeks, check out this backstage video from the Helmut Lang Journal.

REED KRAKOFF 
A few years ago, my good friend and fellow Sarasotan Felice Schulaner, retired Coach HR honcho, introduced me to Reed Krakoff. Err, well, the collection that is. And, I fell for it. 

Reed Krakoff. Also, take note of his accessories, which have already been nominated for by CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America).

Reed holds the title of President, Executive Creative Director for Coach. In addition to designing for the handbag empire he’s cultivating his eponymous line, the Reed Krakoff Collection, now in it’s fourth season on the runway.

I am entirely enamored with his intellectual modern design aesthetic–crisp, architectural minimalism. Detailing looks almost incidental until a model’s gait amplifies and reveals the true construction. Photos truly cannot impart this effect, you have to see the runway show: www.reedkrakoff.com.

To me, the line is for a refined and luxe femme who loves a coquettish slit here and subtle movement there…

BIBHU MOHAPATRA
At 39 years, he’s so young to have already logged in time as an assistant designer with Halston(!) and at J. Mendel under Gilles Mendel (!!), let alone stake a claim to his own namesake label.

Bibhu Mohapatra’s collection is real life glamour for those of us who live off the red carpet (but wouldn’t mind stepping a stiletto into that world).  The elegant proportions and soft sculptural effects are miraculously light and fluid. But what’s more is the tactual luxury.

I’ve had the good fortune of attending one of Bibhu’s Fashion Week shows, with Lisa Marx and his Sarasota family ties Allison and Tom Luzier, where touching the garments was encouraged.  OK, fine, I’ll admit I was uncomfortable doing so even with a nudge from Bibhu’s partner Robert Beard (a bit like putting hands on an artist’s canvas in a packed gallery, with everyone watching). Frankly, I wanted someone else to go first…however, I’m grateful for the up close and personal inspection.  The skill is unmistakable in the engineering.

Bibhu Mohapatra: I’m a bit obsessed with these cross-cultural persimmon Grecian-Harem pants

Bibhu Mohapatra: Perfection in the color trio here, and how about the circle-hem of the coat?

Bibhu Mohapatra

ZAC POSEN
Let’s jump right in by clicking the link for last week’s show.

Incredibly feminine elegance coupled with high glamour.  Take note of the cocktail and evening wear, for certain you’ll see them on beau monde celebrities at future awards shows.

Now, for a closer look of what’s involved in the technical skill of a Zac Posen gown–take a peek at Liebe Smith-Gamble’s chiffon wedding dress.  But, before you do, it’s important for you to know that there are no seams and it’s all one piece of chiffon, detailing finished by a master pleater.

“Zac Posen’s understanding of a woman’s curves feels like divinity when you are wrapped in one of his dresses…I have never felt more beautiful…I highly recommend it! “   – Liebe Smith-Gamble


~Sigh~ Just look at the lavish pleating. And, be sure to direct your attention to the sleeves, they’re like a beautiful bell-shaped paper lantern.

DIANE VON FURSTENBERG
All right, back down to Earth. Some every day, every woman inspiration with Diane von Furstenberg.

“My mission in life is to empower women, in every way I can.” — DVF

While you’re on Style.com checking out the DVF runway, take note of the links just right of the video screen, scroll through to find your faves.

STREET STYLE
Isn’t one of the best parts of being in NYC the people watching?  Well, as you can imagine, it’s even better during FW.

Tommy Ton: The Streets are Talking

Full Frontal Fashion: Fashion Week Style Stars 

Fabsugar: Our Favorite Street Stylers at Fashion Week  

LANVIN
To wrap up, I just want you to be in the know for an everybody’s-talking-about-it moment. Hang on until the end, you’ll catch a glimpse of Lanvin Creative Director Alber Elbas cuttin’ a rug.

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Lanvin Fall/Winter 2011/2012 Campaign with models Karen Elson and Raquel Zimmermann

If you can’t get the song out of your head, like me, it’s I Know You Want Me by Pitbull

For more style updates and trends, follow me on Twitter @heatherDunhill or Facebook.



Thanks to Style.com for allowing us to tap into their vast Fashion Week database.