Cold-weather comfort food just took a big leap forward at Lan Restaurant, where chef/owner Lan Bradeen is braising veal cheeks and finishing them with hoisin and star anise glaze. You don’t see veal cheeks that often, but Bradeen knows how to cook them, using the classic French braising technique and adding her inimitable Asian accents, including a bed of braised daikon. The daikon poses the perfect textural counterpoint to the meltingly tender veal, and asparagus and baby zucchini slaw lighten the rich dish.

—Lan, 1568 Main st. , (941) 953-7111.

Find more foodie news and notes at Chef Judi Gallagher’s Foodie’s Notebook blog.