The Place: Ichiban Sushi Bar, 2724 Stickney Point Road in Gateway Center, Sarasota; (941) 924-1611, www.sarasotaichiban.com

The Fare: The sushi here is more workmanlike than artistic, but the fish is fresh and the price is right.

The Drill: Sit at the large bar and pick up two little slips of paper: a long sushi-by-the-piece list and a shorter list of cooked tidbits intended as starters. You can order dinners and à la carte items from the menu, too, but it’s those little slips of paper that hold the key to our good deal.

The Bottom Line: Although “sushi” and “all you can eat” don’t often combine to good effect, the concept works here for those in a certain mood or a hurry. For $19.95 cash or $21.95 on a credit card, you order as much as you like. How do they manage this trick? One way is by back-charging you for anything you order but don’t eat: $1.10 per piece of uneaten sushi and half a buck per lozenge of rice denuded of its topping and left on the plate. Another is by offering starters of soup, salad and those cooked tidbits to take the edge off your appetite. My advice is to go straight for the tasty sushi.