The Place: Ocean Harvest Market,

5718 Manatee Ave. W., Bradenton;

(941) 795-3746.

The Fare: Fresh fish and shellfish, primarily from the local fleet at Cortez, house-smoked fish and fish spread, and barbecue.

The Bottom Line: Take out or dine in the small utilitarian dining room or outside on the deck. We’re recommending a take-out combo that’s ideal whether you’re headed home or to the beach: three meaty and beautifully smoked pork ribs plus two excellent sides (margarita cole slaw, collard greens and pork-and-beans are the everyday choices plus specials) at $9, and a pair of really fine fish tacos featuring the day’s catch of mild white fish plus margarita slaw for $8. It really is a fish market, too, in case you’re in the mood to cook.

An editor, writer and online publisher, John Bancroft has reviewed restaurants, books, movies and music for many magazines, websites and newspapers, most recently for the St. Petersburg Times.