There's no other way to describe Rocco's Tacos than over the top. Giant wrought-iron light fixtures with starburst cutouts pour light over terra cotta-toned walls, more than 300 tequilas line the wraparound bar and hordes of guests spill into the street. At other restaurants, such extravagant flourishes might make you suspicious about the quality of the food, but at Rocco’s, your skepticism will be laid to rest at first bite.

The pork belly tacos ($17 for three), for example, are a melody of complementary
textures. Large chunks of crisp belly are tossed in a chipotle barbecue sauce and paired with pickled onions and jalapeños. But the corn tortillas steal the show. Made in house fresh every day, the tortillas are sturdy enough to hold the overflowing filling, but are still somehow soft and tender. That’s an indicator of how deeply the staff at Rocco’s understand the nuances of Mexican cuisine and the care they take in presenting it, something that permeates the menu.

The restaurant is part of a small Florida chain with outposts in several cities. The Sarasota location opened in March and showcases well-worn favorites like tacos, burritos, enchiladas and quesadillas, priced higher than your neighborhood taco shop, thanks in part to its central University Town Center location. As an
example, a small chile relleno costs $11, but it’s great. It’s battered with
Modelo Negra, a dark beer, to build a rich foundation that is carried through an impressive Chihuahua cheese pull and punctuated by goat cheese and a delicate blend of spices— a worthy splurge.

But I’m getting ahead of myself. Because to be at Rocco’s is to drink tequila. Select
aforementioned tequilas are substituted for traditional spirits in classic craft
cocktails like an old fashioned ($14.25) made with Hornitos Añejo. A painkiller-inspired cocktail called “coco cabana” ($12), meanwhile, is made with blanco tequila and captures coconutty goodness with a refreshing agave finish. And
with 11 distinct margaritas, ranging from $11 to $16, to choose from, there is no question you’ll be in tequila heaven.

Begin your meal with chips and a trio of salsas ($6) and be sure to opt for the tableside guacamole ($15). I always feel guilty when ordering a tableside preparation, worried I’ll disrupt the server’s flow, but don’t hesitate to request it. The chunky avocado dip transcends any anxiety. And to speak to the quality of
service, the team at Rocco’s is instrumental in curating the restaurant’s impeccable vibes. The servers are knowledgeable about the menu and drinks, and they dance through the open-air dining room as though the restaurant hasn’t been open mere weeks, their faces adorned with genuine smiles.

At the end of the meal, our server, Kevin, makes a dessert recommendation while also highlighting upcoming events: late-night music, happy hour and weekly taco Tuesday nights that include all-you-can-eat tacos for $27.99. He has bought
into the Rocco’s narrative and his enthusiasm is contagious. With dessert options like churros ($9.50) and lime pie ($8.50), it’s hard to decide where to end the evening. But tres leches cake ($8.50) is impossible to pass up. When it arrives, it looks like it may be on the dry side, but my fears evaporate in an instant. Luscious
vanilla envelops my palate as I bathe in the neon light shining down from a
pink and green sign that illuminates the patio and neighboring road. Rocco’s
is wild, yet approachable, in a way that will keep you entertained and coming back for more.

ROCCO’S TACOS & TEQUILA BAR | 243 N. Cattlemen Road, Sarasota, (941) 477-
8226, roccostacos.com