In 1986, chef Jean-Pierre Knaggs and his wife Shay revamped a dilapidated downtown gas station across from the opera house into a white bungalow with a French-inflected menu. He eventually expanded from seating for 40 to 140 in three just-formal-enough dining rooms. With a South African/French heritage, he introduced local diners to South African wines, chilled soups, pommes gratin dauphinois, shrimp piri piri, chicken paillard, all on a menu that is refreshingly continental-eclectic. Many businesspeople and city dwellers think of the Bijou Café (and its intimate little bar) as their own club, but it’s a popular tourist spot, too.