If clarity, simplicity and focus are your sushi ideals, no one in town can match Yume. The chirashi here tells the story. Served atop a mound of sticky, grabable-with-your-chopsticks rice, it consists of simply the freshest and juiciest fish available—wedges of tuna and salmon and other species that carry an immensity of flavor all by their lonesome. Of course, delicate eel, tamago and piquant pickled items help, too. If you prefer to steer your own culinary ship, the restaurant offers plenty of maki rolls. Cobble together a platter of favorites both traditional and inventive. And don’t pass over the cocktail menu, heavy on fruity favorites.